Even gangsters such as Al Capone (center) wore suits though their work was arguably quite … casual.

A READER writes:

I was reading your post on how men should dress and had a few question if you don’t mind.

Is it ever appropriate for a man to wear a T-shirt?  If so, when?

Is it ever appropriate for men to wear sandals, flip-flops, etc.?  If so, when?

Should men always wear a tie when in public?  If no, how casual can a man dress while still being appropriately dressed?

Thank you for your blog and any guidance you can offer.

Laura writes:

Thank you for your trust and interest in my judgment. Here are my opinions on your questions:

Is it ever appropriate for a man to wear a T-shirt? If so, when?

At home, or during athletic activity.

Is it ever appropriate for men to wear sandals, flip-flops, etc.?  If so, when?

Sure, at the beach or park and at home.

Should men always wear a tie when in public? 

No, of course not.

If no, how casual can a man dress while still being appropriately dressed?

A collared shirt of some kind and pants that are not super-tight to the leg and in the back are fine for casual occasions, running errands, or for certain kinds of work. Would you wear a tie to a backyard barbecue? No, I don’t think so. But T-shirts should be avoided. In many offices, no one wears a tie anymore. It is still best to wear one, but it’s hard to make blanket statements because of the different types of work. One can also convey the dignity of one’s work by choosing well-made shirts, pants (not jeans at work in offices) and sport coats.

Men should look like men.

In his book, Equality by Default: An Essay on Modernity as Confinement, the French writer Philippe Bénéton writes about wearing a necktie as a professor:

The utilitarian view is blind to the language of forms, and the spirit of modern equality is allergic to it. Yet, if clothing means nothing why not come to class dirty and ragged? The language of forms expresses the link between dress and attitude. To wear a tie in certain circumstances is to apply the criteria that articulate the hierarchical character of life, to give effect to distinctions among activities, times, ways of being…. The professor who wears a tie is refusing to consider everything as equivalent; by choosing to “dress up” in order to teach, he is saying that this activity is worth a certain seriousness and formality; he is upholding the honor of the profession and the institution.

I would be surprised if a plumber showed up at our house wearing a tie, but even workmen can convey the honor of their work by wearing neat, collared shirts. The problem with the T-shirt is that it has no structure, is revealing and conveys an overall juvenile look.

A comment got lost in the shuffle from a reader named Tyro on the necktie post and the following discussion about whether wearing ties is elitist:

It’s not “elitist” in this day and age to wear a tie so much as it is simply a fading style, like vests and hats. Earlier clothing styles emphasized multiple layers as a means of showcasing the wearer’s ability to own expansive fabric. There’s no reason to be attached to the tie. Fabric quantity is no longer a status marker, and ties lack any sartorial use.

Morning dress and the dinner suit have been replaced with the lounge suit. Suits are more commonly worn without ties, outside of special occasions.

If you ask me, perhaps the best recent fashion innovation over the past 10-15 years as been an emphasis on proper clothing fit over other concerns. A man in a properly tailored Oxford shirt and jeans will always look better than a man wearing a formless baggy suit and extra long tie.

A necktie is not just a passing style but a fundamental part of masculine dress in Western society that dates back to Roman times. It has a significant sartorial role. There is nothing comparable in visually conveying masculine dignity and discipline. The tie provides a focal point that prevents the eye from resting on a man’s lower neck or belly, which in many cases may be … soft. A necktie enhances the angularity of the shoulders. It is an established symbol of masculine authority, but the reasons for that lie ultimately in its visual effect. A man in a properly tailored Oxford shirt and jeans looks even better and more finished with a beautiful and stylish tie. And let’s face it, most men are not wearing tailored shirts. It’s more likely a choice between a man in a formless T-shirt and a man in a baggy suit. For those who can afford tailored clothes, there is still nothing superior to a tailored suit of fine and subtle fabric. Americans are rarely exposed to that so they don’t know what it is. For those with modest means, the best thing to do is invest in a few well-fitting basics and wear them often.

Here is an outstanding selection of articles by Kaede Lira at Tradition in Action on the necktie.

Some suits and neckties from the 20th century:

Students in Williamsburg

Factory workers in Queens in 1930s

— Comments —

Michael writes:

Apple, Google, Amazon, and Ikea have all banned ties from the workplace.

I’d say that’s a HUGE vote in favor of ties.

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