LEEKS are a great vegetable in the kitchen, very popular in French cooking and in Wales, where the leek is a national emblem and where they supposedly say,

Eat leeks in March and wild garlic in May
And all year after physicians may play.

They are not so common on American tables but they have definitely grown in popularity.

Botanically, leeks are related to onions, shallots, garlics and scallions. As an edible, they have a subtlety that is superior to all of these. Though leeks usually reach full maturity in the fall, they can be found in supermarkets all year. Look for ones that are not dried out at the ends and not super-thick. (Thinner seems better.) The long leaves are white at the base, light green in the middle and dark green at the end. The ends are tough and not usually used, though they make a good addition to stock. When they are straight from the garden, leeks are loaded with sandy dirt between the leaves and it’s best to slice them crosswise and then put them in a bowl full of water for a few minutes to thoroughly remove the dirt. Several rinses may be needed.

Leeks are great with Easter dinner because their subtlety goes well with strong tasting meats such as ham and lamb. Their gentle green is suggestive of spring.

Here is a recipe from Williams Sonoma that I have made several times. If you make this for a crowd, you will have to wash and chop lots of leeks but other than that this is very easy to make. Once again, GROO-yair cheese is a star ingredient. This dish is rich, I admit. It’s not something you want to eat every day and you should not pair it with other gratin-type side dishes. But it is a delicious dish worthy of a celebration.

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